UC-NRLF 


$B    MDb    2"]^ 


LIBR^RV 

OF   THE 

University  of  California. 


fnJ.>'iC  UlKeeiUn..   MtWrAsy^oc 


^Accession  oZZoO      Class 


\    .(>^  y-^'  " 


^rrl^^ologual  institute  of  ^mmca- 


AMERICAN   SCHOOL    OF    CLASSICAL    STUDIES 
AT   ATHENS. 


PRELIMINARY    REPORT 


OF  AN 


Arch^ological  Journey 


ASIA   MINOR 


DURING     THE     SUMMER     OF     1884, 


By  J.  R.  S.  STERRETT,  Ph.D. 


BOSTON: 

CUPPLES,     UPHAM,     AND     CO. 

1885. 


PRELIMINARY    REPORT 


ARCHAEOLOGICAL  JOURNEY 


MADE   THROUGH 


ASIA   MINOR 


DURING   THE    SUMMER   OF    1884, 


J.  R.   S.  STERRETT. 


Aj.H 


q\i 


k^^ 


v^^ 


INTRODUCTORY    NOTE. 


This  Preliminary  Report  of  Dr.  Sterrett's  journey  in  Asia  Minor 
in  1884  will  form  a  part  of  the  Second  Volume  of  Papers  of 
THE  American  School  of  Classical  Studies  at  Athens,  which 
will  be  published,  it  is  hoped,  in  the  summer  or  avitumn  of  1885. 
It  is  now  issued  separately,  in  the  hope  that  the  collection  of 
inscriptions,  among  which  are  those  of  forty-two  Roman  milestones 
found  in  Cappadocia,  will  be  of  value  to  all  who  are  interested  in 
the  geography  of  Asia  Minor.  Dr.  Sterrett  announces  his  intention 
of  presenting  these  inscriptions  hereafter  in  cursive  text,  with 
historical  and  explanatory  notes   (see  page  20). 

Dr.  Sterrett  was  a  student  of  the  American  School  at  Athens 
during  its  first  year,  1 882-1 883,  and  he  kindly  returned  to  it  the 
next  year  to  assist  Professor  Packard.  This  journey  in  Asia  Minor 
was  aided  by  the  contributions  of  several  gentlemen  in  Boston  and 
Cambridge. 

This    publication    precedes    by    a    few  weeks    the  First  Volume 

of  Papers  of  the  School. 

William  W.  Goodwin,  )   ^  ,. 

y  Editors. 
Thomas  W.  Ludlow,     ) 

January,   1885. 


92293 


To  THE  Managing  Committee  of  the  American  School 
OF  Classical  Studies  at  Athens. 

Athens,  Oct.  15,  1884. 

During  the  few  days  that  remain  to  me  before  my  departure  on 
the  Wolfe  expedition  to  the  Tigris- Euphrates  valley,  it  is  possible 
to  lay  before  you  only  a  brief  outline  of  the  results  of  my  journey 
through  Asia  Minor  during  the  past  summer.  In  this  outHne  I  shall 
call  your  attention  to  important  facts  alone,  leaving  untouched  many 
things  well  worthy  of  notice. 

Early  last  spring  I  laid  before  you  an  agreement  between  Mr.  W. 
M.  Ramsay  of  Exeter  College,  Oxford,  and  myself,  concerning  a  joint 
journey  to  be  made  in  Asia  Minor.  We  agreed  to  work  in  concert 
through  a  given  district  for  three  or  four  weeks,  after  which  we  were 
to  separate  and  carry  on  our  summer's  work  independently.  In  pur- 
suance of  this  agreement  we  met  in  Smyrna,  May  15,  1884,  where  I 
provided  myself  with  the  outfit  which  would  be  necessary  for  my 
own  journey  after  our  final  separation.  I  then  went  to  Aidin  Giuzel 
Hissar,  the  ancient  Tralleis,  to  buy  horses  and  make  other  final 
arrangements.  For  the  present  I  had  need  of  only  four  horses  :  one 
for  myself,  two  for  my  two  personal  attendants,  and  one  baggage 
horse,  which,  besides  its  burden,  had  to  carry  the  cook.  These 
were  easily  procured. 

Mr.  Ramsay  being  necessarily  delayed  in  Smyrna,  I  undertook  an 
excursion  in  the  direction  of  Nazli,  and  found  near  Kiosk  a  frag- 
mentary letter  of  one  of  the  later  kings,  insignificant  in  itself,  but  of 
value  in  so  far  as  it  locates  approximately  'Upa  Kw/xr;,  which  has  here- 
tofore been  placed  on  the  west  of  Tralleis. 


PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 


No.   1. 


\U_.._lU\/vl_ 

O^TOYENTHIEPAKQi  .  ii 
AQKENAEIQMAAIOYEAE 
I  I^ONIEPA^KOMH^KATOI'^'^'' 
lAP^MENAT^ATTOAAQNI 
^TA^TOfGEO^GEPATTEiAi- 
l^ATTAPXH^EIXENEFQAE 
TTOTONTTPOEMOYBA^I 
^^lEiNTEKAITATONGE 
THN 


TEKAIQ^ETiMHOHAIATA'-- 
THNTTATPIONBAMAEIANKAi 
TO^TETAYTTOT 
^KHTTTPONEXOYIHIKo 
^NT-AEINKA0^A 


Our  final  start  was  made  fi"om  Kuyndjak  by  way  of  Antiochia  to 
Aphrodisias.  Antiochia  has  disappeared  entirely,  and  from  the  vil- 
lages of  this  region  we  collected  only  a  few  insignificant  inscriptions. 
The  ruins  of  Aphrodisias  are,  on  the  contrary,  very  extensive.  A  vast 
number  of  inscriptions  from  this  place  are  already  known ;  and,  in 
our  best  judgment,  we  should  have  required  at  least  a  fortnight  to 
work  our  way  through  the  wilderness  of  ruins  and  sift  the  new  from 
the  old,  the  known  from  the  unknown.  Accordingly,  as  time  was 
pressing,  we  reluctantly  postponed  a  minute  investigation  of  Aphro- 
disias until  a  more  convenient  season.  But,  even  after  this  hurried 
visit,  I  venture  to  express  my  belief  that  systematic  excavations  on 
this  site  would  yield  ample  returns  for  the  outlay. 

From  Aphrodisias  Mr.  Ramsay  went  around  Baba  Dagh  to  the 
north,  by  way  of  Denizli,  and  I  to  the  south. 

On  Kiepert's  large  map  of  Asia  Minor  (1852-55)  it  will  be  found 
that  the  old  site  at  Makuf  is  claimed  for  Trapezopolis  ;  but  at  Makuf, 
besides  numerous  other  inscriptions,  I  found  one  which  shows  that  in 
future  maps  Heraclea  must  be  inserted  here  instead  of  Trapezopolis. 


No.   2. 

HOHKHHrOPACOHYTTOTITOYCTATIAiv 

MHTIOXGYeNHTeOHCeTeAYTOCKAIHrYNf 

AYTOYAYPHAIAMGAITINHAIGNYCIGYK 

ONANAYTOITTEPIONTGCBOYAHGuJCINeTC 

PuJAeOYAeNiezeCTAIGNGAYGTINAGIT. 


JOURNEY 


ASIA 


)eN0AYAITINATTOTICeiTujKYPIAKu 
♦  ICKuJ^4>KAITHB0YAHTHHPAKAeuJ^ 
TuJN^<l>KeOYAeNHTTONOeNTAOO 

m  leTAT^P.G  H  -^^^^^^^^^ 


The  Stadion  at  Heraclea  is  still  very  distinct.  The  Acropolis  is  a 
low  hill  of  great  extent  on  the  top.  The  walls  of  the  Acropolis  are 
easily  followed  around  the  whole  circuit.  In  some  places  they  are 
level  with  the  ground,  while  in  others  they  are  still  erect.  The  walls 
have  once  been  destroyed  and  afterwards  rebuilt,  as  is  clear  from 
the  architectural  fragments  and  even  inscribed  stones  which  are 
built  into  the  present  wall.  But  that  the  foundations  at  least  are 
chiefly  antique  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  on  the  outside  the  wall  is 
provided  with  finely  executed  stone  shoots  at  the  bottom  to  carry  the 
water  off.  Still,  at  one  place,  where  the  wall  is  now  used  as  a  quarry 
by  the  villagers  of  Makuf,  I  discovered  an  honorary  inscription  in  the 
very  foundation.  The  walls  were  evidently  rebuilt  in  time  of  great 
and  pressing  need,  when  the  anxious  citizens  made  use  of  anything 
in  the  shape  of  stone  that  came  in  their  way. 

From  Heraclea  I  zigzagged  to  the  south-east  and  south  through  the 
plain  now  known  as  Davas  Ovassi,  and  made  a  good  survey  of  the 
district.  I  visited  Tabae,  now  Davas  ;  but  found  no  inscriptions,  and 
but  few  traces  of  a  past  other  than  Turkish.  Tabae  is  situated  on  a 
high  hill  in  a  gorge  between  two  mountains,  and  is  surrounded  by 
caiions  three  or  four  hundred  feet  deep  on  all  sides  except  one.  On 
this  one  side  it  is  approached  by  a  bridge  which  crosses  a  chasm 
where  it  is  least  deep  ;  after  the  bridge  is  crossed  a  narrow  neck  of 
land,  just  wide  enough  for  a  roomy  road,-  leads  by  a  tortuous  and 
laborious  ascent  to  the  town  on  the  hill.  When  seen  from  any  point 
in  the  plain  it  seems  to  be  situated  on  a  neck  or  saddle  of  the  moun- 
tains ;  and  one  is  extremely  surprised  at  the  real  topography  of  the 
place. 

The  plain  of  Tabae  is  one  of  extraordinary  fertility ;  in  antiquity  it 
supported  three  cities,  Heraclea,  Tabae,  and  a  third  at  Medet,  the 
name  of  which  is  as  yet  unknown  to  me.     But  that  it  was  a  town  of 


O  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

considerable  wealth  is  clear  from  a  very  substantial  antique  substruc- 
ture in  huge  hewn  stones  of  blue  limestone.  Upon  these  foundations 
there  now  stands  the  Mosque,  which  has  without  doubt  superseded  a 
prouder  structure  in  honor  of  a  pagan  god.  The  adjoining  hill, 
which  certainly  served  as  the  Acropolis,  contains  no  traces  of  anti- 
quity, except  the  many  architectural  fragments  of  great  weight  and 
size  which  are  found  in  the  cemetery.  x\t  Medet,  besides  the  ruins 
just  mentioned,  I  found  honorary  inscriptions,  which  unfortunately  do 
not  give  the  name  of  the  town. 

From  Medet  I  crossed  over  the  mountains  to  Kizildje,  where  I 
found  an  inscription  which  settles  the  site  of  Sebastopolis.  The  in- 
scription is  given  as  it  stands ;  and  all  errors  must  be  laid  at  the  door 
of  the  stone-cutter. 

No.   3. 

AYTOKPATOPINEPBATPAIANQ 
APICTQKAICAPICEBACTQrEPMANI 
KQAAKIKQTTAP0IKQ 
KAITQAHMQTQ^EBA^TOTTO 
AEITQN  .  IT  .  ETATIOEEPMACArO 
PAN0MHEAEKAITTAPAcl>YAA2A^ 
KAITEIMHOEI^ETITEYTTEP 
TH^^TPQ^EQ^TH^E22E 
APAETH^ENTQTETPA^TY 
AQTOYrYMNA^IOYTEIMAI^ 
EIPHNAPXIKAI^TTAAINAEY 
TTEPANA^TA^EQ^TH^NEI 
\H^EKTQNIAIQNTEIMH0EI^ 
TEIMAI^AIANYKTO^^TPATH 
riKAI^KAIATTOAOXEY^rZ 
NAMENO^rXMA^KAIAPTY 
POTAMIA^^AKAOQ^KAI 
AIATQNYH4>I^MATQN 
TTEPIEXEI 

The  ruins  of  Sebastopolis  are  in  full  view  from  Kizildje,  about  half 
an  hour  to  the  east.  I  had  sent  my  cook  in  advance  to  Kizildje  ; 
but  on  my  arrival  there  I  found  that  he  had  gone  to  Kizildje  Beylik, 
near  Makuf ;  so,  to  my  intense  disgust,  I  had  to  leave  Sebastopolis 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  / 

unvisited  and  go  in  search  of  the  erring  cook.  Accordingly  I  re- 
traced my  steps,  leaving  Medet  on  my  left.  From  Kizildje  Beylik  the 
river  Harpasiis  was  traced  to  its  source,  the  watershed  being  found  to 
be  east  of  Tekeh. 

According  to  appointment,  I  had  a  conference  with  Mr.  Ramsay  at 
Kizil  Hissar.  He  then  took  the  plain  of  Karayuk  Bazar,  while  I 
passed  by  Yataghan  to  Kayahissar,  and  thence  through  a  number  of 
villages  (not  on  the  map)  to  Giineh ;  thence  to  Eriza,  the  site  of 
which  is  between  Dodru  Agha  and  Yazir.  Here  some  interesting 
inscriptions  were  found.  Hence  I  proceeded  via  Gumaoshar  to 
Tchamkieui  in  the  plain  of  Cibyra,  where  I  again  met  Mr.  Ramsay. 
Although  we  were  so  near,  we  decided  not  to  visit  Cibyra,  knowing 
that  it  had  been  explored  in  1877  by  Messrs.  Duchesne  and  Collignon, 
then  of  the  French  School  at  Athens.  From  Tchamkieui  I  returned 
northward  to  Derekieui.  Half  an  hour  to  the  north  of  Derekieui  in 
the  plain  are  foundations,  possibly  of  a  temple.  On  the  top  of  the 
mountain  immediately  east  of  Derekieui  the  villagers  report  a  kale 
and  inscriptions.  In  the  valley  south-east  of  Derekieui  are  the  ruins  of 
an  ancient  town  of  some  size,  but  no  inscriptions.  Hence  I  crossed  the 
rugged  and  in  places  almost  impassable  Eshler  Dagh  to  Karamanli. 
In  this  neighborhood,  which  contains  the  flourishing  villages  of 
Karamanli,  Hedja,  Sazak,  and  Tefeny,  I  spent  three  or  four  days 
copying  inscriptions,  which  will  be  the  subject  of  a  special  paper. 

At  Tefeny,  where  I  again  met  Mr.  Ramsay,  some  new  inscriptions 
were  found,  one  of  which  is  very  enigmatical,  but  is  too  long  to  be 
given  here.  At  Kaldjik,  one  hour  east  of  Karamanli,  Mr.  Ramsay 
and  I  separated  finally.  My  road  led  north-eastward  down  the  valley 
of  the  Gebren  Tchai,  a  district  blank  on  the  map,  but  containing  a 
number  of  villages.  About  two  hours  east  of  the  village  of  Einesh 
is  the  site  of  an  ancient  town,  now  wholly  deserted.  The  remains 
are  not  unworthy  of  notice.  Among  other  things  may  be  mentioned 
the  tombs,  most  of  which  are  circular  buildings  of  stones  hewn  into  a 
circular  shape,  with  massive  stone  foundations.  This  may  possibly 
be  the  site  of  Themisonium.  Buldur  and  Baris,  now  Isparta,  were 
visited ;  then  Seleucia  Sidera,  now  Egerdir,  at  the  southern  end  of 
the  lake  which  bears  its  name. 

At  Egerdir  I  was  shown  two  old  Byzantine  steelyards.  The  four 
sides  of  the  bronze  beams  were  all  different,  each  side  being  appar- 


8  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

ently  intended  for  a  different  standard  of  weight.  The  great  inter- 
vals corresponding  to  our  one,  two,  three,  etc.,  pound  notches,  were 
marked  by  letters  of  the  Greek  alphabet.  The  heavy  weight  was  a 
head  of  Zeus  in  bronze,  filled  with  lead.  The  owner  demanded 
thirty  pounds  for  the  two,  which  put  them  out  of  my  reach.  I  was 
anxious  to  get  at  least  an  accurate  drawing  or  copy  of  the  weight- 
slots  or  notches ;  but  the  suspicious  Turk  feared  that  the  value  of  his 
property  would  thereby  be  diminished,  and  refused  to  allow  me  to 
make  any  notes  or  take  any  drawings  whatever. 

A  glance  at  Kiepert's  great  map  of  Asia  Minor  (1852-55)  will  show 
that  the  water  from  the  little  Godeh  Gol  is  made  to  flow  northward  and 
empty  into  the  Egerdir  Gol.  This  is  copied  in  the  French  map  pub- 
hshed  by  Kiepert  in  1884.  The  reverse  of  this  is  true,  as  was  pointed 
out  by  Hamilton  nearly  fifty  years  ago.*  The  outlet  of  the  Egerdir 
lake  is  to  be  found  forty  minutes  south-east  of  Egerdir ;  it  is  a  strong, 
deep,  and  very  rapid  stream,  spanned  by  a  bridge  just  at  its  exit  from 
the  lake.  I  made  inquiries  again  and  again  concerning  the  course  of 
the  river,  and  found  the  natives  unanimous  in  the  statement  that  the 
water  goes  southward  to  Adalia.  They  did  not  tell  me,  however, 
as  they  did  Hamilton,  that  the  water  from  the  Godeh  Gol  finds  an 
underground  exit.  I  am  decidedly  of  the  opinion  that  the  Egerdir 
lake  is  the  real  source  of  the  river  Cestrus ;  but  this  point  will  have 
to  be  decided  definitely  on  a  future  journey,  and  I  regret  that  it  was 
out  of  my  power  to  trace  th^  matter  up  at  once.  The  scenery  of 
the  Egerdir  lake  is  among  the  most  picturesque  and  beautiful  I  rec- 
ollect to  have  seen  in  Asia  Minor.  Rugged,  jagged,  threatening 
mountains,  many  with  snow-capped  peaks,  spring  up  almost  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  lake  on  all  sides. 

From  Egerdir  the  road  goes  around  the  lake  to  the  south,  over  a 
path  which  is  still  frightful,  notwithstanding  recent  attempts  to  make 
it  passable.  But  after  the  so-called  Iron  Gate  (Demir  Kapu)  is 
passed,  the  road  is  level  as  far  as  Gelendus  (no  ruins  !),  whence  I 
went  by  zigzags  to  Antiochia  Pisidiae.  Besides  the  interest  attaching 
to  Antiochia  of  Pisidia  as  the  scene  of  some  of  the  labors  of  the 
Apostles  Paul  and  Barnabas,  it  is  very  rich  epigraphically.  I  copied 
very  many  inscriptions  here,  more  than  half  of  which  are  in  Latin, 

*   Hamilton,  .-Isia  A/inor,  I.  p.  482. 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  9 

testifying  to  a  very  large  and  wealthy  Roman  colony.  Although 
there  can  be.no  doubt  in  regard  to  the  site  of  Antiochia,  still  docu- 
mentary evidence  is  by  no  means  abundant,  and  the  follo^^ing  official 
document  may  not  be  out  of  place  here  :  — 

No.  4. 

AYPAIONYCI 
ONTONAZIO 
AOrQTATO  N  G 
K  ATO  NTAPXO  N 

pe  reQN APiON 

H  A  A  MTT  P  ATQ  NAN 
TIOXGQNMHTPO 

TTOA  I  ceire  i  k  i  ac 
TeKAiTHeeiPH 

NHCGNGKA* 

A  few  of  my  inscriptions  from  Antiochia  are  already  known,  but 
the  majority  are  new.  The  inscriptions  copied  up  to  this  point 
number  one  hundred  and  fifty.  The  ruins,  both  on  the  Acropolis  of 
Antiochia  and  elsewhere  in  the  neighborhood,  are  very  considerable 
and  impressive ;  but,  as  they  have  been  described  by  Arundell  and 
Hamilton,  I  need  not  delay  longer  over  them. 

The  road  (six  hours)  from  Antiochia  to  Philomelium,  now  Ak 
Sheher,  leads  across  the  Sultan  Dagh  by  what,  in  the  absence  of  ac- 
curate information,  has  hitherto  been  thought  to  be  a  pass.  But  it  is 
a  pass  only  in  so  far  as  deep  gorges  lead  up  to  the  great  backbone  of 
the  mountain  on  either  side.  The  mountain  sends  off  ridges  without 
number  at  right  angles  to  -the  mountain  chain,  and  any  two  opposite 
gorges  may  be  called  a  pass  with  as  much  propriety  as  the  one 
through  which  the  road  from  Antiochia  to  Philomelium  leads.  There 
are  some  high  peaks  in  Sultan  Dagh  at  the  north  ;  but  the  point  at 
which  the  road  crosses  is  quite  as  high  as  any  other  in  the  mountain, 
and  both  ascent  and  descent  are  very  tortuous  and  laborious.  The 
road  reaches  the  great  plain  of  Philomelium  one  hour  north-west  of 
that  city,  and  consequently  does  not  descend  the  gorge  at  the  mouth 

*  The  chisel  of  the  engraver  will  make  small  slips  sometimes ! 


lO  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

of  which  Philomelium  lies,  as  it  appears  to  do  on  Kiepert's  map. 
But  few  remains  of  Greek  antiquity  are  to  be  found  at  Philomelium ; 
but  on  the  other  hand  the  traveller  is  surprised  by  some  Seldjuk 
ruins  of  exquisite  beauty.  The  accurate  workmanship  displayed, 
even  in  the  execution  of  details,  will  compare  favorably  with  Greek 
buildings  of  a  good  period. 

At  Philomelium  I  was  joined,  as  had  been  previously  arranged,  by 
my  friend,  Mr.  J.  H.  Haynes,  of  Robert  College,  Constantinople, 
who  accompanied  me  as  photographer  during  the  rest  of  the  journey. 
Thanks  to  his  art,  we  have  photographs  of  the  Seldjuk  ruins  of 
Philomelium.  My  travelling-outfit  had  been  left  at  Smyrna,  so  that 
I  had  had  a  hard  journey  thus  far.  Mr.  Haynes's  advent  was  there- 
fore hailed  with  delight ;  for  henceforward  we  could  have  substantial 
food,  on  which  depends  in  great  measure  the  success  of  an  expedi- 
tion like  this.  Four  more  horses  were  bought  here,  one  for  Mr. 
Haynes,  and  three  for  the  photographic  plates  and  other  baggage. 

From  Philomelium  my  route  lay  along  the  foot  of  Sultan  Dagh  in 
a  south-easterly  direction  to  Doghan  Hissar.  This  region  is  very 
populous,  and  what  is  a  blank  mountainous  space  on  the  map  is  in 
reality  a  plain  full  of  prosperous  villages.  These  villages,  as  Doghan 
Hissar  is  approached,  have  numerous  inscriptions,  mostly  late.  At 
Kara  Agha  I  copied  one  which  proves  that  Hadrianopolis  Phrygiae 
was  somewhere  in  this  neighborhood. 

No.   5. 

AYPHAGIOCZUJ 

T  I  K  OCTT  A  Y  AG  I  N  OY 

AA^^NOTTOAG  ITH 

CTH|CY  N  Bl  WAY 

P  H  ^P  \  A  A  r  A  Y  K  Y  T  A 

THMNHMHCXAPIN 

In  point  of  fact,  Mr.  Haynes,  who  had  taken  a  different  route  from 
myself,  found  ruins  at  Reghiz,  but  especially  at  Kotchash,  one  and  a 
half  hours  north-east  of  Doghan  Hissar.  These  ruins  are  late  and  the 
inscriptions  are  Byzantine ;  but  still  Kotchash  is  probably  the  site  of 
Hadrianopolis.  Doghan  Hissar  is  a  modern  town,  without  any 
antique   remains.     From  Doghan  Hissar  our  road  lay  westward,  in 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  II 

the  direction  of  Kara  Agatsh,  it  being  my  object  to  investigate  the 
pass  of  Sultan  Dagh,  in  the  hope  of  finding  an  ancient  town  (possibly 
Pappa).  The  road  enters  the  mountains  from  Kara  Agha;  the 
ascent  is  gentle  but  steady.  The  descent  on  the  west  side  of  the 
mountain  is  sharper  and  more  precipitous.  The  pass  is  low,  and  no 
trace  of  a  town  was  found.  It  will  be  noticed  that  the  west  side  of 
Sultan  Dagh  is  a  blank  on  the  map  ;  but  the  district  is  densely  popu- 
lated. In  a  fertile  valley  about  an  hour  east  of  Kara  Agatsh  there  is 
a  cluster  of  seven  large  and  prosperous  villages.  The  whole  com- 
munity goes  by  the  name  of  Tchariik  Serai ;  but  each  of  the  seven 
villages  has  its  own  distinctive  name,  and  each  of  these  names  has 
the  ending  mahalli  (instead  of  kieui),  e.g.,  Tchikourmahalli,  Uluma- 
halli,  Sugharmahalli,  Beliikmahalli.  As  a  case  parallel  to  this  may 
be  cited  Yalowadj,  which  is  composed  of  five  villages  in  a  cluster, 
each  with  the  above  ending. 

Tchariik  Serai  is  certainly  the  site  of  an  old  town ;  possibly  Pappa 
(or  Amblada)  must  be  placed  here,  but  no  documentary  proof  exists 
at  present.  That  Phrygian  was  the  language  of  the  aborigines  is 
clear  from  the  following  Phrygian  epitaph  :  — 

No.   6. 

lOCNICEMONKNOYMA 
NEKAKONAAK  ETAI  N  I 
M  AN  K  ATI  ETITTETI 
KM  ENOE  EITOY 

Another  Phrygian  fragment,  from  the  Mosque  of  Aiplar  (one  hour 
south  of  Kara  Agatsh) ,  may  be  inserted  here. 

No.   7. 
lOCKeCGMONTOKAKONOZ. 

In  the  summer  of  1883,  Mr.  Ramsay  and  I  found  several  Phrygian 
inscriptions  in  the  plain  east  of  Sultan  Dagh,  at  Arkiit  Khan  and 
Ilgiin ;  but,  so  far  as  I  know,  these  are  the  only  ones  known  on  the 
west  side  of  the  mountain. 

From  Tchariik  Serai  we  returned  to  Antiochia,  visiting  the  many 
villages,  copying  inscriptions,  and  making  route  surveys.   At  Managha, 


12 


PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 


about  four  hours  south-east  of  Antiochia,  I  found  the  fifth  mil- 
harium  from  Antiochia.  It  has  therefore  been  transported  about 
seven  miles  from  its  original  place.  The  stone  is  badly  defaced  on 
both  sides. 

No.  8. 

Fii'st  Side. 

D  D  N  N 
FLCON  STANTINOMAX 

VV.\  V  L  C  0  N  S  f  A  N  f  I  0  E  T 
CLCONSTANT  \WMM^. 
V  I  C  T  0  R  I  T  ^  i::;  M  P  A  V  G  G 
ABANTIOCHI  AT^^^/^^^ 


PONTIF-MAX-TRIB 
POTX  I  I  I  COS  i  I  I 

p.  P 

M  P    U 


No.  9. 

Second  Side. 

IMPCMAVRVA 
M  A  X  I  M  I  A  N 
Fl  N  V  I  CT  A  V 

SON  FP 

.^^^v^AESAR 
[  Uncut  spaceT^ 
U  M  PC  A 
M  A  C  A  P 
ET  I  M  P  C  N  E V 
I  M  0  R  V  A 
M  A  X  I  M  I  N 
R  E AVG  \ 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  I3 

I  regret  that  I  could  not  spend  more  time  in  this  district.  It  did 
not  fall  within  the  hmits  of  my  original  plan,  and  my  visit  was 
necessarily  a  hasty  one.  There  are  several  points  that  will  need  in- 
vestigation on  a  future  journey.  For  instance,  at  Karakuyn,  a  kale 
in  the  mountains  two  hours  south-east  of  Antiochia,  extensive  ruins 
and  inscriptions  were  reported  to  me  by  the  people  of  Yalowadj. 
Karakuyn  is  almost  certainly  Oroanda  or  Misthia.  In  this  connection 
may  be  cited  an  inscription  which  throws  a  valuable  side  light  on 
the  geography  of  Pappa  and  Oroanda.  The  inscription  was  found  at 
Hissar,  half  an  hour  east  of  Antiochia. 

No.   10. 

TY  X  H  N  e  Y 
M  e  N  H  T  H 
K  OA  Ul  N  e  I 
AT  I  Be  P I  0 

TT  0  A  e  I  T  UJ  N  IT  A  TT 

HNUUNOPGNAG 

UJNBOYAHAHMOC 

The   KGAUJNeiATIBePIGTrOAeiTUJN   is  Antiochia. 

Ruins  and  inscriptions  were  also  reported  at  Bachtiar,  four  or  five 
hours  south  of  Antiochia,  at  the  foot  of  Sorkundja  Dagh.  In  this 
region  Neapolis  must  be  looked  for. 

From  Antiochia  we  returned  to  Kara  Agatsh,  a  large  town  situated 
in  the  centre  of  a  very  fertile  plain.  Anabura,  a  town  mentioned  by 
Livy  in  his  account  of  the  march  of  the  consul  Cn.  Manlius,  has 
always  been  placed  far  north  of  Kara  Agatsh  and  Antiochia,  and, 
as  I  think,  correctly.  At  Kara  Agatsh  I  found  the  following  in- 
scription :  — 

No.    11. 

0  B  P  I  M  I  A  N 
OC  K A  I  M  0       ^ 
CA  I  OCO  I    ICY 
A  I  OYTOTT  P 
5        OrONIKON 
e  P  TACTH  P I 


14  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

0  N  K ATA  r A  I 

0  N  YTTOB  A  L 

0  N  TG  CTAC 
10   TTAPACTAAA 

CKAITHNOP 

0<1>  H  N  K  A  I  TO 

HNUMGNON 

A  YTWCYCTP 
15    LUMATTOALUN 

{iincuq  C  Y  C  T  P  UJ 

CA  N  TG  C  K A  I 

TA  AO  ITTATTA 

NTAKOCMHCA 
20    NTGCAYTOY 

e  KTUIN  lAI  UN 

A  N A  BOYPe YC  I 

N  eiTO  I  H  CA  N  e 

26  A  PA  N  0  N  TG 
25    CATTOrONOIMA 

^JOYOYPAMMOOY 

For  the  present  I  call  attention  only  to  lines  22  and  23.  Besides 
this  inscription,  I  was  informed  that  ruins  and  inscriptions  were  to  be 
found  at  a  place  called  Enevre,  said  to  be  from  two  to  four  hours 
south-east  of  Kara  Agatsh.  "  Enevre  "  is  almost  certainly  a  corrup- 
tion of  "  Anabura,"  and  the  inscription  and  the  name  of  the  village 
seem  to  point  to  the  fact  that  at  least  an  Anabura  once  existed  in 
this  neighborhood.  But  it  is  certain  that  it  is  not  the  place  touched 
by  the  consul  Manlius.  It  is  not  uncommon,  either  in  Asia  Minor 
or  Greece,  to  find  two  towns  or  rivers  bearing  the  same  name. 

Hence  our  route  led  south-east  towards  Carallia,  whose  name  is  still 
preserved  in  the  Turkish  Kiirili.  It  must  be  noted,  however,  that 
the  old  town  of  Caralha  lay  an  hour  north-east  of  Kiirili.  The  Acro- 
polis is  still  easily  identified,  and  architectural  fragments  are  found  in 
a  cemetery  near  a  large  spring  north-east  of  the  Acropolis.  The 
inscriptions  of  Carallia  are  all  Christian. 

Our  next  point  was  Elflatoun  Bounar,  which  we  visited  to  photo- 
graph   the    sculptures    mentioned   by  Hamilton.     These   sculptures, 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  1 5 

being  known  only  by  hearsay,  will  be  welcomed  by  archaeologists. 
The  very  ancient  structure  bearing  the  sculptures  is  just  on  the  edge 
of  an  immense  spring ;  in  fact  the  whole  region  abounds  in  large 
springs  of  delicious  cold  water.  The  water  from  the  great  valley  of 
Afium  Kara  Hissar,  Ak  Sheher,  and  Ladik  has  no  visible  outlet,  and 
must  find  an  underground  exit.  No  doubt  part  of  it  flows  out  in 
these  springs,  and  part  by  the  many  great  springs  at  Tchifteler, 
Orcistus,  Amorium,  Abrostola,  etc.,  in  the  woodless  country  north-east 
of  the  valley. 

Hence  we  went  to  Selki,  the  Serki  Serai  of  Kiepert's  map,  which 
places  it  much  too  far  to  the  north.  The  region  north-west  of  Selki 
is  full  of  villages,  which  lie  along  the  foot  of  Sultan  Dagh.  At  one 
of  these  villages  a  large  spring  of  hot  water  is  reported,  which  is  said 
to  be  a  popular  resort  of  the  Turks  of  this  region.  From  Selki  the 
road  passes  through  a  wild  mountainous  district,  infested  by  brigands, 
to  Kizil  Oren.  About  half  an  hour  west  of  Kizil  Oren  there  still 
stand  a  Seldjuk  khan  and  mosque  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation,  but 
the  remains  of  a  remoter  antiquity  are  all  Christian. 

Iconium  is  eight  hours  distant  from  Kizil  Oren ;  the  road  is  unin- 
habited and  monotonous.  About  two  hours  from  Kizil  Oren  there  is 
a  Seldjuk  khan,  not  well  preserved.  A  second  khan  is  five  hours 
distant,  at  the  junction  of  our  road  with  the  road  from  Iconium  to 
Philomelium. 

At  Iconium  I  found  quite  a  number  of  inscriptions,  most  of  which 
are  late  and  of  little  value.  The  people  of  this  eastern  country 
seem  to  have  had  little  interest  in  the  affairs  of  this  world,  and  spent 
their  surplus  energy  in  preparing  tombs  and  epitaphs  for  themselves. 
When  Leake  passed  through  Iconium,  the  walls  of  the  town  were 
full  of  inscriptions,  which  he  had  no  time  to  copy.  After  the 
destruction  of  Iconium  by  Mehemet  Ali  of  Egypt,  these  walls  were 
used  as  quarries  for  the  buildings  of  the  modern  city  of  Koniah. 
The  inscriptions  mentioned  by  Leake  all  perished  in  this  way  before 
an  epigraphist  was  found  to  copy  them.  But  many  inscriptions  are 
no  doubt  still  in  the  walls  with  the  inscribed  side  hidden  from  view. 
Part  of  the  wall  had  been  thrown  down  only  a  short  time  previous  to 
our  visit,  and  I  copied  several  inscriptions  brought  to  light  in  this  way. 
The  walls  were  built  in  the  common  Greek  fashion  (Thuc.  I.  93) ;  that 
is,  two  walls  were  built  at  a  fixed  distance  apart,  and  the  space  between 


l6  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

them  was  filled  with  earth  and  stone  debris.  At  Iconium  the 
filling  consisted  mostly  of  simple  clay  or  mud,  which  took  faithful 
impressions  of  the  stones  composing  the  outer  shell  of  the  wall,  so 
that  one  may  now  see  therein  neat  reliefs  of  inscriptions,  Phrygian 
doors,  and  architectural  fragments.  The  ruins  of  the  buildings 
erected  by  the  early  Seldjuk  Sultans  of  Iconium,  from  Aladdin  down, 
are,  for  the  most  part,  of  exquisite  beauty.  Mr.  Haynes  spent  two 
days  in  photographing  them ;  and  as  very  few  travellers  go  to 
Iconium,  these  photographs  will  no  doubt  be  acceptable  to  many. 

The  Governor  of  the  Vilayet  of  Koniah,  Sahib  Pasha,  who  studied 
in  England  and  speaks  English  fluently,  showed  us  kind  attentions  in 
more  ways  than  one.  He  is  collecting  the  most  important  antiquities 
of  the  district,  as  they  come  to  light,  for  the  Museum  in  Constanti- 
nople, and  his  collection  is  not  without  interest.  Among  other  things 
may  be  mentioned  a  frieze  in  very  high  relief.  Unfortunately  we 
were  unable  to  get  photographs  of  the  collection. 

The  road  from  Iconium  to  Archelais,  now  Ak  Serai,  crosses  the 
desert  region.  The  first  station  is  ObrukH,  the  ancient  Savatra,  at  a 
distance  of  fourteen  hours.  We  found  no  water  on  this  journey.  The 
plain  is  absolutely  level,  and  the  thirsty  traveller  is  mocked  on  all 
sides  by  the  Fata  Morgana,  promising  water  near  at  hand ;  but  the 
promised  water  recedes  continually,  and  finally  turns  out  to  be  noth- 
ing but  a  deceptive  mirage.  At  Obrukli  there  is  a  little  lake,  the 
surface  of  which  is  about  ninety  feet  below  the  surrounding  country. 
The  villagers  use  this  water  for  household  purposes.  We  were  told 
that  the  water  is  drinkable  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  except  for  two 
weeks  in  December,  when  it  is  in  a  state  of  violent  ebullition.  When 
this  season  approaches,  they  lay  in  a  sufficient  supply  of  water  to  last 
until  the  lake  has  resumed  its  wonted  calm.  How  true  this  may  be, 
or  what  causes  the  phenomenon,  I  am  not  prepared  to  say. 

Sultan  Khan,  the  next  station,  is  the  grandest  and  most  beautiful 
of  all  the  remains  of  Seldjuk  splendor  seen  by  us  in  Asia  Minor.  We 
spent  one  day  in  its  welcome  shade,  during  which  time  numerous 
photographs  were  taken,  and  the  huge  building  was  roughly  measured. 
One  of  the  Arabic  inscriptions  states  that  it  was  built  a.d.  1277.  A 
very  large  spring  rises  qui^e  near  to  Sultan  Khan,  and  the  land  yields 
abundant  harvests  wherever  it  can  be  properly  irrigated.  Indeed, 
this  is  true  everywhere  in  Asia  Minor. 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  1/ 

Archelais  is  a  sleepy,  uninteresting  town,  with  but  few  traces  of 
the  Graeco-Roman  civiHzation ;  but  the  foot-prints  of  the  Seldjuks 
are  abundant. 

At  Selme,  three  and  a  half  hours  east  of  Archelais,  we  found  numer- 
ous dwelHngs  cut  in  the  rock,  similar  to  those  described  by  the  early 
travellers  at  Soghanli  Deressi  and  Udjessar.  In  fact,  we  found  these 
wherever  the  soft  volcanic  tufa  appears  (Hamilton,  I.  97).  Selme  is 
situated  in  a  deep  gorge  through  which  the  Irmak  flows,  and  in  which, 
in  fact,  it  has  its  source.  The  cliff  to  the  east  rises  perpendicularly 
from  three  to  four  hundred  feet ;  at  its  base  there  is  a  maze  of  sharp 
natural  cones,  similar  to  those  at  Udjessar.  Most  of  these  cones  are 
hollowed  out,  often  with  several  stories,  for  human  dwellings,  and  are 
used  as  such  now,  as  in  ancient  times.  The  whole  cliff  is  honey- 
combed into  dwellings,  chambers,  chapels,  passages,  and  tombs ; 
story  rises  upon  story.  Even  now,  people  live  and  die  in  these 
rock-cut  dwellings,  at  least  two  hundred  feet  high  on  the  cliff.  There 
is  no  earthly  reason  why  they  should  live  there,  as  the  country  is  safe 
and  land  is  abundant ;  but  they  do  not  seem  to  object  to  the  dark 
winding  stairs  and  passages. 

Across  the  Irmak,  five  minutes  south  of  Selme,  is  the  village  of 
Ichlara,  the  cliff  behind  which  is  also  similarly  honeycombed  ;  several 
fagades  of  temples  are  conspicuous  on  the  side  of  the  cliff.  A  short 
distance  east  of  Ichlara  the  Irmak  gushes  out  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs, 
a  full-grown  river  at  its  source. 

Our  road  hence  led  by  way  of  Kuyulu  Tatlar,  so  called  from  the 
numerous  wells  which  supply  the  village  with  water,  to  Melegobi^ 
This  region,  though  blank  on  the  map,  is  full  of  villages,  most  of 
which  will  appear  on  the  next  map.  It  may  be  noted  that  the  Tada 
Su  of  the  map  does  not  exist,  at  least  not  in  the  plain  of  Kuyulu 
Tatlar  and  Melegobi ;  and,  furthermore,  the  drain-water  from  this 
district  must  run  south,  and  not  north  as  on  the  map.  Melegobi  is  a 
large  and  flourishing  village,  inhabited  almost  exclusively  by  Greek- 
speaking  Greeks.  The  Greeks  are  numerous  all  through  the  western 
part  of  Cappadocia,  and  generally  cling  to  their  language  with  great 
tenacity,  a  fact  worthy  of  notice,  inasmuch  as  the  Greeks  in  other 
parts  of  Asia  Minor  speak  only  Turkish.  Instances  of  Greek-speaking 
towns  are  Nigde,  Gelvere,  Melegobi  (McAeKoVta),  and  Ortakieui  in 
Soghanli  Deressi.  ( 


1 8  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

Hence  we  travelled  to  Soghanli  Deressi,  the  wonders  of  which 
have  been  described  by  Hamilton.  The  rock-cut  dwellings  are  more 
numerous,  but  of  the  same  character  as  those  at  Selme  and  Ichlara ; 
only  at  Soghanli  Deressi  there  are  no  ternple  fagades  to  be  seen. 
Soghanh  Deressi  is  simply  a  break  in  the  surrounding  plateau  from 
three  to  four  hundred  feet  deep.  The  descent  from  the  plateau  to  the 
valley  is  made  by  a  very  steep  road  hewn  out  of  the  volcanic  tufa. 
At  its  head  the  valley  of  Ortakieui  is  about  one  hundred  yards  wide ; 
but  the  width  increases  steadily,  and  it  is  from  five  to  seven  hundred 
yards  wide  at  the  point  where  Soghanli  Deressi  branches  off  laterally 
from  it.  While  the  surrounding  plateau  is  a  barren  waste,  the  soil  in 
the  valley  is  exceedingly  fertile,  delighting  the  eye  with  its  luxuriant 
gardens. 

Whether  these  rock-cut  habitations  date  originally  from  an  earlier 
epoch  or  not,  it  is  at  all  events  certain  that  they  were  used  by  the 
early  Christians.  Chapels  are  numerous,  in  some  of  which  may  still 
be  seen  pictures  of  Byzantine  Saints  with  inscriptions  just  Hke  those 
common  in  orthodox  churches  of  to-day.  Among  the  saints  depicted 
are  ^epytos,  Ba;(o?,  Me/oKovpco?,  names  which  may  give  a  clue  to  the 
time  when  Christians  worshipped  here.  In  the  floor  of  the  chapels 
graves  were  cut,  in  some  of  which  we  found  human  skeletons.  In- 
deed, such  tombs  are  frequent  in  the  dwellings  themselves,  so  that, 
as  Hamilton  remarks,  the  people  lived  in  the  same  room  with  their 
pigeons  and  their  dead.  We  have  a  goodly  number  of  photographs 
from  Soghanli  Deressi. 

Zengibar  Kalessi  is  situated  about  half  an  hour  west  of  Develi  Kara 
Hissar.  It  is  a  lofty  rock  with  two  peaks,  one  of  which  is  consider- 
ably higher  than  the  other.  In  the  saddle  between  the  two  peaks 
nestles  Kalekieui.  There  can  scarcely  be  a  doubt  but  that  the  higher 
peak  of  Zengibar  Kalessi  is  Nova,  the  proud  rock  where  Eumenes 
and  his  little  band  defied  the  whole  army  of  Antigonus  for  nearly  a 
year.  From  Develi  Kara  Hissar  we  pushed  on  northward  to  Indjesu, 
and  through  the  Sazliik,  or  place  of  the  bulrushes,  to  Caesarea,  thus  pass- 
ing almost  half  around  the  snow-capped  peak  of  Mt.  Argaeus.  It  was 
my  intention  to  go  directly  from  Develi  Kara  Hissar  to  the  Antitaurus, 
not  touching  at  Caesarea  until  the  home  journey ;  but  circumstances 
made  a  visit  at  this  time  imperatively  necessary.  We  thus  made  a 
great  detour,  and  lost  four  or  five  days,  all  on  account  of  one  pack- 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  I9 

saddle  !    At  any  rate,  we  learned  the  important  lesson  that  every  article 
in  the  outfit  for  a  journey  of  this  kind  must  be  of  the  very  best  quality. 

Parting  with  regret  from  our  kind  friends,  the  American  missiona- 
ries of  Caesarea,  we  hurried  past  Tomarza  to  the  Antitaurus,  which 
was  crossed  by  the  precipitous  pass  between  Dede  Dagh  and  Beyli 
Dagh.  This  region  was  hitherto  unknown ;  we  found  it  fertile  and 
well  populated,  and  of  course  route  surveys  were  made  here,  as  on 
the  whole  journey.  We  visited  Comana,  the  only  place  marked  on 
the  map,  about  two  hours  south  of  Olakaya.  The  Great  Goddess  is 
no  longer  worshipped  in  Comana ;  but,  to  our  immense  astonish- 
ment, we  found  a  Protestant  church  there,  composed  of  the  converts 
of  the  American  missionaries.  From  Comana,  now  Shahr  Deressi, 
we  took  a  nine  hours'  journey  down  the  river  Sarus  to  Hadjiu,  which 
is  also  a  seat  of  the  American  missionaries.  It  is  on  the  right  side 
of  the  river,  and  about  three  hours  distant  from  it.  Hadjiu  is  a  mod- 
ern town,  inhabited  solely  by  Armenians,  and  is  situated  in  a  great 
hole  in  the  mountains  about  '1500  feet  below  the  level  of  the  surround- 
ing country.  Three  hours  north-east  from  Hadjiu,  the  great  cafion 
of  the  Sarus  is  reached.  The  canon  is  fully  1000  feet  deep.  The 
banks  are  almost  perpendicular,  so  that  one  can  scarcely  believe  it 
possible  for  a  living  being  to  descend  and  ascend ;  yet  it  may  be 
done.  Five  hours  south-east  of  Cocussus,  at  an  Avshar  Yaila,  known 
as  Kilissedjik,  we  found  two  Greek  tombs  of  a  good  period.  I  am 
inclined  to  place  Laranda  here. 

The  plain  of  Cocussus  is  remarkable  both  for  its  exuberant  fertility 
and  for  its  springs  and  rivers.  A  dated  inscription  of  the  ninth  year 
of  Trajan  (107  a.d.),  found  at  Deghirmeri  Deressi,  informs  us  that 
Zeus  Epikarpios  was  then  worshipped  here ;  indeed,  in  so  fertile  a 
plain  we  should  naturally  expect  to  meet  with  the  cult  of  some  god 
of  the  harvest.  * 

No.   12. 

eUlNePOVATPAIA 
N  OY  K  Al C A  POCCe 
B ACTOY  re  P  M  A  N  I 
K  OY A  A  K  I  K  OYGTO 
A  I  I  e  TT  I  K  A  P  TT  I  U) 
K  ATT  I  TUJ  N  T  I  A 
AGYCeKTUNIAlU 
NANeOHKGN 


20  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

Tasholuk,  a  village  one  hour  south  of  Cocussus,  is  the  site  of  an 
old  town. 

Among  a  goodly  number  of  inscriptions  copied  at  Cocussus  were 
several  Roman  milliaria.  I  have  been  told  that  the  milliaria  found 
by  me  in  the  terra  i7icognita  of  Antitaurus  are  of  so  great  importance 
that  I  have  no  right  to  keep  them  from  the  public  until  my  return 
from  Babylonia.  In  this  Preliminary  Report  I  cannot  do  more  than 
give  the  inscriptions  in  uncial  text,  hoping  to  make  historical  and 
explanatory  remarks  upon  them  at  some  future  time. 

These  milHaria  are  about  eight  feet  high,  and  from  two  and  a  half  to 
three  feet  in  diameter  at  the  bottom,  tapering  off  to  a  very  thick,  blunt 
point  at  the  top.  They  are  accordingly  cone-like  in  shape.  The  stones 
are  very  rough  and  unpolished,  and  the  surface  is  full  of  elevations 
and  indentations.  It  is  obvious  that  inscriptions  on  such  a  rugged, 
unequal  surface  are  very  difficult  to  read,  and  that,  without  some 
practical  experience  in  epigraphy,  one  would  stand  before  them 
absolutely  helpless.  Impressions  of  such  inscriptions  are  altogether 
worthless,  as  trial  has  proved  to  me  conclusively. 

I. 

Milliaria  at  Cocussus  (Goksun). 
No.  13. 
Goksun.     Western  Ce?netery.     Waddington' s  JJ. 
I  MP 
CAES 

DIVISEVERNEP 
DIVIMANTONINI 

Fl  L  . 
MAVRANTONINO 
PIOFELICIAVG 
MILIARESTlTVTA 
PERMVLPOFELLI 
VMTHEODORVM 
L  EG    A  VG 
PR  PR 

PAT 

One  hundred  and  thirty-third  milestone. 


(  UNiVERSiTY  ; 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR. 


21 


No.  14. 

GoksUn.     Western  Cemetery. 

S  A  L.  V  A  L 
X  I  M  I  A  N  0 
L  V  I  C  A  E  S 

ANTONIVSGORDIA 

N  V^^O  B  I  I..  L.  S  I  M  V  S 

EXARRESTiTVIT 

PERCVSPIDI 

A  M  I  N  I  V  M  S  E 

VERVMLEGETPR 

P  R  ETO  R  E  M 

P  M  A 

One  hundred  and  forty-first  milestone. 


N  V 


No.  15. 

Goksun.     Southern  Cemetery. 

I  M  P 
CAESARCIVL 
VERVS   MAXIMI 
'^^P^CAESSN-i 

G  A  I  0  x^l  A^p.L 

D  L^P,L  e  I  I  A  N  0 

ETI  N  V  I  CTO'^/v 
NOBILISSIMVS  CAESAR 
VI  AS   ET  PONTES  VET 
TATECON  LA  BSAS  RES 
T  I  TV  E  R  V  l: 


AVGG 
XII 


PMA 


One  hundred  and  forty-first  milestone. 


22 


PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 


No.  16. 

Goksiin.     Southern  Cemetery. 

IMPCAESAR 
D  I  V  I  S  E  V  E  R  I 
N  E  P  D  I  V  I  M 
ApiTO  MINI    Fl  L 
M  AV  R A  NTON 

N  0  ywwwww 

^^  S  I  s  ^^ 
ivflll  A   r'e' 
STITVTA   PER 
MVLPOFEL 
LI  V  M  T  H 


No.  17. 
G'dksun.     Southern  Cemetery.     Badly  worn  and  illegible,  except 

LEG 
PR      PR 


P  A 


One  hundred  and  thirtieth  milestone. 

No.  18. 
Goksi'in.     Southe?'n  Cej?ietery. 
I  M  P 


w/////////r///M 
A  V  R 

R  I  B 
COS  S  A  P  P 
TES  VETTVSTA 
NLAPSAS  RESTITV 
I  T  A  P  K  E 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  23 

There  are  several  uninscribed  milliaria  in  the  cemeteries  of  Goksiin. 

From  Goksiin  we  went  back  in  a  north-west  direction  to  about  six 
miles  from  Comana.  On  this  excursion  also  we  found  a  number  of 
milliaria,  and  thus  were  enabled  to  trace  the  Roman  road  from 
Comana  to  Cocussus  in  its  entire  length. 


II. 

MiLLIARLA.    OF   THE    ROAD    FROM    COiVIANA  TO    CoCUSSUS. 

Mehe?net  Bet  Kieui.      One  hour  north-7vest  of  Goksiin. 
No.  19. 


Y 


I M  PCCC 
DIOCLETIANO 
I  P  ^  I  ^  \  I  I 

A         C 

T  I  T 
M  P 
I  E 

No.  20. 
Mehemet  Bet  Kieui. 

I  M  PC  A  ES 
A  R  M  A  R  C  V^ 
^V  L  P  H  I  LI  P  PVS 
FELIXINVICTVS 
GETMARCVS 
ILIPPVSNOBILISSI 


^VSCAESAR  V 
IPONTES  VET 


'////. 


ECON  L APSAS 


ST ITV  E  R  N   ]  P  E 

NMMEMMIVMH 
:ET  FV  A 
^^^  0  N  S  T  A  N 


24  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

No  numerals  remain.  There  are  two  other  uninscribed  stones  at 
this  place.  Half  an  hour  south  of  Kekli  O.ghlou  is  a  stone  almost 
entirely  buried. 

No.  21. 

Kekli  Oghlou.     Four  hours  north  of  Goksiln. 

C  A  E 
A  R  M  A  RCV^ 
PHILIPPVS   PIVS   F^ 
NVICTVSAVG 

RCVSIVLPHILIP 
BILISSIMVS  CAES 
ASETPONTES   V  E 


^xTECONLAPSAS  RE 
RARER  ANTO  NfVM 
MIVM    HIERONEM 

iEGAVGG     PR 

PR 

No.  22. 

Kekli  Oghlou. 

I  M  PC  A 

ES A  R I G  A 

I  0  i  V  I  i  "V  E 

ROMA 

[  Uncut  space'] 
M  I  N  0^  P I  0 
FELICI^AVG 
TR I  B^P^r  E 
L  I  C  I  N  N  I  V  M 
S  ES  E   I  M  I  A  N 
VI^LEG^AVG 
PR    PR 


PAH 


One  hundred  and  thirty-eighth  milestone. 

Also,  two  uninscribed  stones  are  at  Kekli  Oghlou. 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR. 


25 


No.  23. 

Yalak.     Two  hours  from  Comana. 


ARC 

LIPPVS 

SSI M VS 

SAR  VI ASETP 

ONTES  VETV 

STATECON  L 

PSAS  RPST^I 

ERVN 

N  IVX 

IVM 

MVC 

M 

No.  24. 

Yalak. 

CAG  S  A 

V 

OC 

V  1  DA  E 

OV 

LCISA 

PON 

ON  LAPSAS 

No.  25. 

Yalak.     The  only  milestone  fou7id  with  a  Greek  inscription. 

^Cl  ACYTTATO^ 
%0C    TAG    OAOYC^ 
^'TOIOI^^P.OVP, 
^^PMNTICT^^ 

P   M  A 

One  hundred  and  forty-fourth  milestone  (see  below,  p.  35). 


2^  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

The  Antonifie  Itinerary  for  the  whole  Antitaurian  region  seems 
hopelessly  confused,  and  its  inconsistencies  will  perhaps  never  be 
satisfactorily  explained.     On  p.  210  we  read  :  — 

A  Coduzalaba 
Comana  XXVI. 

Siiicis  XXIIII. 

while  on  p.  2 1 1  we  have  the  following  :  — 

Item  a  Caesarea  Anazarbo  CCXI.,  sic : 
Arassaxa  XXIIII. 

Coduzalaba        XXIIII. 
Comana  XXIIII. 

Siricis  XVI. 

Cocuso  XXV. 

Now  the  milliaria  given  above  show  that  the  Roman  road  went,  as 
one  would  naturally  expect,  by  Mehemet  Beikieui,  Kekli  Oghlou, 
and  Yalak ;  and  as  the  whole  distance  between  Comana  and  Cocussus 
is  reckoned  as  eight  hours,  there  is  plainly  something  wrong  in  the 
statement  of  the  Antonine  Itinerary.  Both  Kekli  Oghlou  and  Yalak 
are  sites  of  small  ancient  towns ;  but  the  most  important  of  these 
was  at  Yalak,  and  at  Yalak  I  am  inclined  to  place  Siricae.  In  that 
case  the  Antonine  Itinei'ary  would  be  nearer  the  truth  if  it  were 
emended  to  read  :  — 

Comana  XXIIII. 

Siricis  VI. 

Cocuso  XV. 

Let  it  be  noted  that  this,  besides  being  a  direct  route,  is  the  only 
natural  road  from  Comana  to  Cocussus  :  on  the  north  lies  the  Biu 
Bogha  Dagh,  and  on  the  south  the  Yuvadja  Dagh.  It  is  unreasona- 
ble to  suppose  that  the  Romans  would  neglect  the  only  natural  road- 
bed to  carry  a  road  over  the  huge  mountains  just  mentioned. 

On  our  return  journey  to  Cocussus  we  followed  the  Tolbiizek  Su  to 
its  source,  which  is  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour  west  of  Mehemet 
Beikieui,  at  the  foot  of  Yuvadja  Dagh.  Here  innumerable  springs 
gush  from  the  mountain  side,  and  the  water  from  them  is  sufficient  to 
form  a  large  and  swift  river  of  the  purest,  coldest  water. 

From  Cocussus  we  turned  our  faces  eastwards  in  the  direction  of 
Arabissus.  The  present  road,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  follows  the 
ancient  Roman  road,  most  of  the  milliaria  of  which  were  found  by  us. 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR. 


27 


III. 
MiLLIARIA    ON   THE    ROAD    FROM    COCUSSUS    TO  ArABISSUS. 

No.  26. 

At  an  old  cemetery  by  the  roadside,  forty  minutes  east  of  Goksiin. 

RVS     . 
A  RAO  I    A  R 
POTI  VI  I 
TIMPCA  ES 


RESTITVERVNT 
ANVM    LEG    PRPR 

In  this  cemetery  there  are  four  miUiaria,  one  of  which  is  deeply 
buried. 

No.  27. 

3ide?n, 

M  A  X  I  M  I  A  N  0 
NOb  CAE 
SS 


No.  28. 

Ibidem. 

I  M  P 
^^^M  A  V^ 
MMPEPM 


COANTOR^^ 
CORLNOCC  A  E^ 
LICi  AVG^TO 
RESTIT^SRVNT 
PER  CVSPIA I M/ 
M  I  N I u  M    SEVe  RVM 
CATVM    POPRAC^ 
TOAMM 


In  a  cemetery  one  hour  and  five  minutes  east  of  Goksiin  there  are 
two  more  milliaria ;  one  nearly  buried,  the  other  erect  but  illegible. 


28 


PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 


It  was  impossible  for  us  to  get  at  the  half-buried  stones  :  to  raise  one 
out  of  a  hole  is  generally  half  a  day's  work  for  four  men,  in  a  coun- 
try where  levers  are  not  to  be  had. 

No.  29. 

In  a  cemetery  07ie  hour  and  forty  minutes  east  of  G'dksun. 
PER   M  EM  M 

No.  30. 

Ibidem.     Erect. 
PT.^MAXipONTIMp 
MM  XII  COS  llliPMIBOM 


IMIMAVBEMANTONINYS^ 


PERHYLIYMFLACICYMiAElAlAYMMEO 


No.  31. 
Ibidem.     Erect. 


L  S  E  ^^^^ 
y///;///A  p  A  R  T  I  F^^^ 


''^  I  M  P  X  I  mW/A 


^IPERCIVL^ 


No.  32. 

Ibidem.     Erect. 
d  I  00  LET'  ^^/^ 


5^0  0  N  ST  AIT 

METCAIVMM^ 


|M  A  XI  M  I  A  NO: 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR. 


29 


No.  33. 
Ibidem.     Erect. 


PIO   FELICIA 
VG  TRI  BPPERLI 
CINNIVM    SERENI 
A  N  VN    LEG  A  VG 
PR   PR 

P  K  B 

One  hundred  and  twenty-second  milestone. 


In  the  cemetery  of  KanUikavak  we  found  no  less  than  twenty-six 
milliaria,  many  of  which  were  never  inscribed.  The  inscribed  stones 
cost  us  a  day  and  a  half  of  hard  work,  in  deciphering  and  copying 
the  inscriptions  (Nos.  34-48). 

No.  34. 
Kanliikavak.     Cemetery. 

MP 

SPI 

ICTV 

A  RCVS 

NOBI  LI  SSI  M 
_SARVIAS  ET  TO 
T^S  VETVSTATE 
CON  LAPSAS   RESTITVE 

PER   ANTON  IVM    MfC 
MIVMHIERONEM 
LEG    AVG 
PR   PR 


30  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

No.  35. 

Ibidem. 

V 
M 

e 

ICI 

VN  I 

ON 
PR   PR 

P  K 

One  hundred  and  twentieth  milestone. 


No.  36. 

Ibidem. 

\N  I  JNO 

LISSI  M  OCASA 
CATCLG  Me  NT 

CRCRCROU  II    ^CIA 
I  M  P 


P    K 


pnut 

Possibly  the  one  hundred  and  twenty-fifth  milestone. 

No.   37. 

Ibidem. 
IMP 
DIVI  SEV  ERI 
NEPDIVl    MAN 
TON  INI    Fl  L 
M   A  V  R 

NO  PIO  FELICI 
A  VG 
Ml  LIA  RESTITVTA 
M^^POFELLI  VM 
TH  EODORVM 

LEG  AVG    PR  PR 

M  FK  i 

Possibly  the  hundred  and  twenty-first  milestone. 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  31 

No.    38. 
Ibidem. 
PR   PR 

No.   39. 

Ibidem. 
I  M  P 
CA  ESARI M A 
RCO   A  NTON I 
OGORAIANOPI 
OFELICI   AVGVS 
TO  R  ESTITVERV 
NTP  ER  CVSPI  A 
IVM  FSAM  I  N  I 
VM  SEVERVM 
LEG ATVM  PROP 
RAG^TOR  EM 

No.  40. 

Ibidem.  Two  inscriptions  are  so  inscribed  on  and  over  each  other 
that  it  is  perhaps  impossible  to  untangle  them ;  but  the  following 
can  be  read  :  — 

I  M 

CAES   M ARCVS 
•|VL  PH  I  LI  PPVS 
PIVS   FELIX 

No.  41. 
Ibidem. 

IMPP 

OCPTIAI 
GTM   ALTIUAL 
MAXIMIANO 
PPFF  INVAVG 
ET  FIAulv./A| 
CONSTANTIO 


32  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

EIC     A      ,   Al 

CAES 
MAXIMIANO 

\_uncut  space\ 
'       H  MAXPONTMAXTRIBPOTVIO 
IP  XI  COSI  I  PP  PROCOS  ET  IMPCAES 
MAVREL  .  ANTONI^^^ 
NVSAVG  \_na7?ie  erased'\ 
{erased^  TITVERVNT 

PERC-  IVLIVM  FLAG 
CVM  AELIANVM  LEG  PR  PR 

No.  42. 

Ibidefti. 
IMPP 

diOCLETIANO 
IMPCAE^'S'^AVRVAL 

MAXIMIANO 

LSEPTIMIVS  SEVERVSAVG 

PPLE    I    NV 

PIVS  PEPTINAX  AVG  ARABiADlAB 
PARTH  MAXPONT  MAXTRIBTli  OTVI 

OICT 

IMPXI  COSIII  PPPROCOS  ET  IMPCAES 

ET  CAIVA 

MAVREL  ANTON  I NVSAVGNO 

ETLSEPT^^VS  NObb  CAESS^^ESTITVERVNT 

PERC-  IVLIVM  FLACCVM  AELIANVM  LEG  PR  PR 

Nos.  43  and  44. 
Ibide?n . 
I  M 
R  CAESM  A 
RCVSIVLP 
H  I  LI  PPVS   PIV 
S  EELI  XI  NVI 
CTVSAVG  E 
T  M ARCVS 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR. 

1  VLI  VS    PHI 

LI  PPVS   NO 

BILISSI  MVS 

CAESAR  VIA 

S  ET  PONTES 

P/  E  T  V  S  T  A  T 

'W/V///U  1    A  p  «;  A  ^ 

'WWWW  ~  V  E  R 

WMMMMM.^  ^ 

33 


On  the  other  side  of  the  same  stone  there  is  this 


I  M  ppecc  N A  I 

d  lOCLeTIANG 
ET   M  AVRVAL 
M  AX  I  M  I  ANO 
PPFF  INVIAVG 

VI  VAI 
CON  STANTIO 
ETCAI^^A^E 
M  AXI  M  I  ANO 
NObb  CAESS 


No.  45. 
Ibidem. 


AX 

PP  FF ! N  VI  AVG 
ET  FLAV I  V AL 
CON  STANTIO 
ET  CVALEN 
M  AX  I M 1 ANO 
NObb  CAESS 
P 


34  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

Nos.  46,  47,  48. 

Ibidem.     Stone  with   three  insciHptions   inscribed  on   and  over  each 
other.     After  much  tabor  I  succeeded  in  disentangling  them. 
No.  I.  reads  :  — 

IMPCA 
ESAR  GVIMVSTREBO 
NGALLVS  ET IMPCAES 
ARGVIVIVS  VELDVMI 
NIANVS  VOLVSIANV 
Pll  FELICINVICTIAVGGVIAS 
ET  PONTES  VETVSTATE  CON 
LAPSAS  RESTITVERVNT  PERA 
VERGILIVM  MAXIMVMVC 
VGG  PR  PR 


No.  IL  reads 


RESTITVTA 
P,E  R  M  V  L  P 

o'fellivm 

TH  EODORV 
M  LEG  AVG 
PR  PR 


M 


No.  III.  reads 


I  M  P  P  C  C 
d  lOCLETI ANO 
ET  M  AVRU  LI 
M  A  X  I  M  I  A  N  0 
PPFFi  N  VI  AVG 
ET  Fl AVGi    VAL 
CON  STA  NTIO 
ETCAI   VAL 
M  AX  I M I  A  NO 
NObb  CA  ESS 

Between    Kanliikavak    and   Arabissus    no    milliaria   were    found. 
Indeed  all  seem  to  have  been  transported  from  this  whole  region 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  35 

to  the  cemetety  of  Kanliikavak  to  serve  as  tombstones.  Arabissus, 
now  Yarpuz,  was  once  an  important  place,  to  judge  by  the  remains 
still  extant,  which,  however,  are  mostly  Christian. 

About  one  and  a  half  hours  west  of  Arabissus  is  Ziaret  Serai,  a 
Seldjukian  palace  or  villa.  In  a  cemetery  midway  between  Emirli 
and  Ziaret  Serai  I  found  the  one  hundredth  milestone  (No.  49). 

No.  49. 

Cemetery  betiueen  Emirli  and  Ziaret  Serai. 

MPTRI  BPOT  VIA 

ET^^NTE 
S  R^S  T I T  V  E  R  V  N 
C  I  V  L  I  ^pp  C  I 
AVG '    PR 


c 


All  the  rest  of  the  stones  have  Greek  numerals,  this  one  alone  hav- 
ing the  Latin  C. 

At  Yalak  the  one  hundred  and  forty- fourth  milestone  (No.  25) 
was  found.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  numerals  diminish  steadily  along 
the  road  from  Comana  to  Cocussus,  Kanliikavak,  Arabissus,  a  fact 
which  proves  conclusively  that  Mr.  Ramsay  was  correct  in  his  opinion 
that  distances  in  the  Trans-Antitaurian  region  were  measured  from 
Melitene. 

From  Arabissus  we  undertook  a  zigzag  journey  in  a  northerly 
direction,  with  Khurman  Kalessi  as  an  objective  point.  This  ex- 
cursion was  disastrous  to  man  and  beast,  and  its  results  were  purely 
chorographic.  Our  return  journey  led  us  by  way  of  Tanir,  situated 
on  the  Khurman  Su  just  at  the  point  where  it  emerges  from  the 
mountains.  The  traces  of  antiquity  are  abundant  at  Tanir,  and  the 
name  would  seem  to  indicate  that  it  is  the  site  of  Ptandaris.  Hence 
we  returned  to  Arabissus. 

No.   50. 

Cemetery  of  Yarpuz.      So  super-inscribed  as  to  be  hopelessly  illegible. 

NOBI  LI  SSI  M   \ 
CA  ES 


36  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

No.    51. 
Cemetery  of  Yarpiiz.     E^rct  hut  ilk^ible. 

CO  N  LA  P 


IV. 

MlLLIARlA    ON    THE    ROAD    FROM    Ak^BISSUS    TO    MeLITENE. 

No.  52. 
I71  Cemetery  one  hour  and  four  7ninutes  east  of  Yai-puz. 

I 

RESTIT 
PER 
CIVLIVM    FLAG 
CVM  AELIANVM  LEG  PRPR 

MIL  P 

This  is  another  hundredth  milestone,  with  the  numeral  in  (ireek. 


No.  53. 

Ibidem. 

IMP^^GAESAR 

A  VR  EL 

S^space  overwritten'\ 

^POTESTPgGOS 

VIAS  ET  PONT 

VETTVSTAT 

A  PSAS  REST 

1% 

Two  more  stones  in  this  same  cemetery  are  wholly  illegible. 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  3/ 

Nos.  54  and  55. 

[These  two  inscriptions  were  not  received  from  Dr.  Sterrett  in  time  to  be 
prmted  here.  —  Edd.] 

At  Albistan  we  found  nine  milliaria,  some  of  which  were  never  in- 
scribed, and  the  rest,  with  one  exception,  are  wholly  illegible. 

No.  56. 
Albistan.      Ce?netery. 

CA  ES 

EP 


mmmmw/Mmm. 
RESTITVTA 
P  0  FELLI 
VM   THEODORVM 
AVG   PR  PR 

Owing  to  illness  we  were  delayed  several  days  at  Albistan,  during 
which  time  kind  attentions  were  showered  upon  us  by  the  American 
missionaries. 

Henceforward  no  milliaria  were  found.  I  am  wholly  unable  to 
account  for  this,  as  there  are  only  two  possible  roads  from  Albistan  to 
Melitene,  one  of  which  we  traversed  on  the  way  out  and  the  other 
on  our  return.  It  may  be  safely  affirmed,  however,  that  the  Roman 
road  did  not  go  by  way  of  Koz  Agha  and  Poulah,  since  this  whole 
road  is  much  too  difficult.  Had  the  Roman  road  gone  this  way,  it 
could  not  have  avoided  the  abrupt  pass  of  Olakaya,  and  it  is  exactly 
this  pass  which  makes  it  necessary  to  look  for  it  elsewhere.  The 
only  other  route  is  that  by  way  of  Derende,  and  thence  down  the 
Tokhma  Su,  via  Argas  to  Malatia. 


From  Albistan  we  visited  Arslan  Tash,  six  hours  to  the  north-east, 
to  get  photographs  of  the  very  antique  lions  which  are  there.  Theiice 
we  returned  to  Demirdjili,  Koz  Agha,  and  across  the  pass  of  Olakaya 


38  PRELIMINARY    REPORT.   OF 

to  Poulah  and  Melitene.  The  chorographic  results  are  considerable. 
They  do  not  fall  within  the  limits  of  a  paper  like  the  present,  and,  in 
fact,  can  be  worked  up  properly  only  by  a  professional  geographer. 
Professor  Heinrich  Kiepert  of  Berhn  had  the  goodness  to  make  two 
special  maps  for  my  journey,  at  the  cost  of  great  labor  to  himself; 
and  in  acknowledgment  of  this  I  have  sent  him  all  my  route-surveys 
and  other  topographical  matter.  He  has  delayed,  as  I  am  informed, 
the  publication  of  his  new  map  of  Asia  Minor,  in  order  to  insert  the 
routes  explored  by  Mr.  Ramsay  and  me  during  the  past  summer. 

The  new  city  of  Malatia,  being  the  midway-station  between  Con- 
stantinople and  Bagdad,  is  a  wide-awake  business  town,  and  in  this  re- 
spect it  differs  very  materially  from  the  ordinary  Turkish  town.  When 
Mehemet  Ali  of  Egypt  was  at  war  with  his  master,  the  Sultan,  a 
large  number  of  Turkish  troops  were  quartered  for  an  indefinite  period 
on  the  people  of  old  Malatia,  which  stood  on  the  site  of  Melitene. 
This  was  more  than  the  Turks,  long-suffering  though  they  are,  could 
bear ;  so  they  abandoned  their  old  homes  to  the  soldiers,  and  built 
a  new  city  among  the  gardens  seven  or  eight  miles  west  of  Melitene. 
Consequently,  old  Malatia  is  now  a  mass  of  ruins,  among  which  may 
be  seen  many  fine  specimens  of  the  ornamented  architecture  of  the 
Seldjuk  builders. 

From  old  Malatia  our  road  lay  through  an  exceedingly  fertile  dis- 
trict to  the  junction  of  the  Tokhma  Su  with  the  Euphrates.  Hence- 
forward our  faces  were  turned  steadily  towards  the  west,  and  our 
homeward  road  led  us  by  way  of  Arga,  and  thence  through  a  very 
mountainous  region,  inhabited  solely  by  Kizil  Bashi  Kurds,  an  inhos- 
pitable, murderous  set  of  filthy  villains,  who  still  preserve  all  the 
ferocious  characteristics  of  their  ancestors,  the  ancient  Kap8ov)(oL, 
of  whom  Xenophon  has  little  good  to  report  in  the  Anabasis.  West 
of  Arga  some  traces  of  the  old  Roman  road  are  to  be  seen,  but  no 
milliaria.  At  the  Beli  Gedik  we  reached  the  Tokhma  Su,  and  followed 
it  up  to  Derende,  which  means  "  in  (or  at)  the  gorge."  An  hour 
east  of  Derende  the  gorge  is  entered,  and  the  new  town  stretches  out 
along  the  river  for  the  whole  distance  between  this  point  and  the 
Derende  of  the  map.  Old  Derende  was  abandoned  like  Malatia, 
and  for  the  same  reason.  At  old  Derende  the  river  has  cut  its  way 
through  the  rock,  which  rises  perpendicularly  about  three  hundred 
feet  on  either  side.     The  width  of  the  pass  through  which  the  river 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  39 


thus  flows  is  about  fifty  feet.  On  the  right  bank  is  the  almost 
impregnable  castle,  probably  dating  from  the  early  Turks  ;  at  its  foot, 
on  the  west,  lies  the  abandoned  town.  Midway  between  Ashta  and 
Arslan  Tash  we  found  a  very  ancient  lion  in  black  basalt,  and  took 
photographs  of  it  from  various  positions.  From  Arslan  Tash  we  took  a 
look  at  the  utterly  unknown  Palanga  Ova,  passing  via  Ketchi  Magara, 
which  is  much  too  far  north  on  the  map,  to  Elmali,  Boylik  Tatlar, 
and  Khurman  Kalessi. 

Khurman  Kalessi,  a  proud  castle  possibly  of  early  Turkish  origin, 
stands  on  a  crag  just  at  the  junction  of  the  Maragos  Tchai  with  the 
Khurman  Su.  Between  Khurman  Kalessi  and  Maragos  there  are 
three  inscriptions  in  large  letters  on  three  huge  rocks  by  the  road- 
side ;  taken  together,  they  are  the  most  interesting  topographical 
documents  within  my  knowledge.  The  first  consists  of  eight  heroic 
hexameters ;  the  second,  of  two  hexameters ;  and  the  third  is  an 
elegiac  distich.  Two  of  them  cannot  be  reached  without  artificial 
help,  which  everywhere  in  Turkey  it  is  difificult  to  obtain.  Of  these 
two  we  have  photographs.  The  third  can  be  reached,  but  only  with 
danger  to  life  or  limb.  The  surface  covered  by  the  inscription  is  so 
great  that  only  a  few  letters  in  each  line  can  be  read  at  a  time  ;  this 
done,  one  must  climb  down  and  up  again,  it  being  impossible  to 
move  horizontally  along  the  face  of  the  rock.    They  read  as  follows  :  — 


No.  57. 

AKIAAI0YXeiPIC04>0YAAeEAN 
APOYTOYKA|ct>IAITT"mOY 

THCAeKOPHCKOTTIHCTTOTATTHAIBATOIO0OPOYCA[C] 

A0ANATQNBOYAHICINYTTeK<J>YreNAPKTONATTHMQN 

AIX0AAIHICKQMHICI<t>iAITTTTIOYAPCINOOYTe 

0YT0CAPirNQT0CTTPei^N0P0CACTY4>eAIKT0C 

eTTAeTOA'APCINGQIMeNeAeOAIACAPPOMAHNA 

TQIA'APeTTITTPOXOHICIAYQTTGTAMQNCOBArHNA 

TTICT0IA'AAAHA0IGeTAP0ITTeA0NQN4>IA0THTA 

APPHKTHNTTArOCOYTOCATTArreAAOIKAieTreiTA 


40  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

No.  58. 
T0YAYT0YXEIPIC04>0Y 
GNNeATOITTeTPHeeNeTTIKPHNHNCOBArHNQN 
KAAAIPOONCTAAIOIKOPAKOCTTOTAMieOTTAPOXOAC 

No.  59. 
T0YAYT0YXEIPIC04>0Y 
errYOITOICOBArHNAKAIAirAHGNTAAOeTPA 
HNAOAirONCTieYCHIC/OYC^AieKKAMATOY 

As  I  attach  importance  to  the  thorough  understanding  of  these 
inscriptions,  I  add  the  text  in  small  letters  :  — 

No.   57. 

^AklWlov    ^€LpL(T6(j)ov  '^AXe^di/- 
Spov    Tov    Kal    ^  iXiTnriov. 
Troche  Koprj   (tkottltj^  ttot   cltt  rjXL^droLo  Oopov(Ta\_v'j 
dOavoLTOiv  /BovXrjcriv  VTreKcj^vyeu  apKTov  dTnjfjLOJV 
St^^aSiT^?   [/o]w/xT7crt  ^tXtTTTTtou  'ApcTLPOov  re. 
ovTO^   dpiyvdiTo^;  Upeicop  6po<^  dcrTvcfyeXiKTO^;. 
eirXeTo   §'  'ApcTLvoco  /xa^   iSeOXua  ^appofjLoirjva, 
T(p  8'   dp*  inl  TTpo^ofjcrL  hvo)  irora^cxiv  '^o^dyrjva. 

TTLCTTOL    8'     dXXljXoLS    €TapOL    TTeXoV,    OJV    (^tXoTT^Ta 

dpprJKTTjv  irdyo^  ovto^  dirayyeXXoi   koX  eireiTa. 
No.  58. 

TOV    aVTOV    ^€LpLCr6(f)OV. 

evvta  roL  Trer prjOei/  eVi   Kprjviqv  So/3ay7]i>(ov 
KaXXipoov  (TTdSiOL  KopaAco?  noTafjLolo  nap'   o^Oas. 

No.  59. 
TOV   avrov   Xeipicrocfyov. 
eyyvOi  tol  Xo^dyrjva   /cat  aiyXrjevra  Xoerpd- 
rjv  8'   oXiyov   cmevcrrj^;  [X]ou(T[ea]t  e/c   Kap^drov. 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR.  4I 

[Note.  The  following  changes  in  the  text  of  these  inscriptions 
have  been  adopted,  chiefly  in  accordance  with  the  suggestions  of 
Professor  F.  D.  Allen,  since  the  paper  was  received  from  Dr.  Sterrett : 
in  No.  57,  I,  Kopr]  cTKOTnrj';  for  Kopr/cr/coTrn;?,  and  ^opovcra[v]  for 
6opovora[<i] ;  57,  3,  [p](i)/xr](rL  for  KU)fxrj(TL,  and  the  period  at  the  end 
of  the  verse;   57,   4,   IlpctW  6po^   for  Upeiiovopos.      In    No.   59,    2, 

[A]ovor[ea]!,  for 

They  may  be  thus  translated  :  — 

No.  57. 
Epigram  of  Acilius  Chirisophtts,  the  son  of  Alexander  who  is  also  called  Philippius. 
"  Once  on  a  time,  by  the  counsels  of  the  Immortals,  a  girl  escaped  unhurt 
from  a  bear  which  rushed  down  fiora  this  lofty  crag,  through  the  twofold  strength 
of  Philippius  and  Arsinous.  This  is  the  unshaken  mount  Prion,  known  to  all 
men.  The  home  of  Arsinous  was  Sarromaena  ;  that  of  Philippius  was  Sobagena, 
at  the  confluence  of  two  rivers.  They  were  faithful  comrades,  and  may  this  rock 
declare  their  unbroken  friendship  even  to  future  ages." 

No.  58. 
Of  the  same  Chirisophtts. 
"  It  is  nine  stadia  from  this  rock  to  the  fair-flowing  spring  of  Sobagena,  on 
the  bank  of  the  river  Korax." 

No.  59. 
Of  the  same  Chirisophtts. 
"Near  by  is  Sobagena  with  its  bright  clear  baths.     If  you  will  hasten  a  little, 
you  may  bathe  yourself  after  your  toil." 

In  consequence  of  the  changes  in  the  text,  Dr.  Sterrett's  inter- 
pretation of  the  first  inscription  has  been  omitted.  —  Edd.] 

From  this  it  is  clear  that  Khurman  Kalessi  occupies  the  site  of  Soba- 
gena, inasmuch  as  it  is  just  at  the  junction  of  the  Maragos  Tchai  with 
the  Khurman  Su.  For  a  similar  reason,  we  must  conclude  that  the 
ancient  name  of  the  Khurman  Su  was  Korax.  We  saw  no  spring  at 
Khurman  Kalessi ;  the  ancient  spring  may  have  dried  up,  or  perhaps 
reference  is  made  to  the  clear  cold  water  of  the  Korax  itself.  Sar- 
romaena possibly  was  situated  near  Maragos,  which  name  may  even 
be  a  corruption  of  Sarromaena.  Nine  stadia  is  about  the  true  distance 
from  Khurman  Kalessi  to  the  rock  bearing  the  inscription. 

Leaving  these  inscriptions,  we  passed  by  Maragos  ;  thence  through 
an  exceedingly  mountainous  country  to  the  valley  of  Saris,  near  which 


42  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

Coduzalaba  must  have  stood.  There  are  seven  or  eight  villages  in 
this  plain,  which  I  left  iinvisited,  as  this  route  had  been  taken  by 
Messrs.  Ramsay  and  Wilson  a  few  years  ago.  Here  we  crossed  the 
Antitaurus  by  a  much  less  laborious  pass  than  before.  Our  road  lay 
by  Ekrek,  Karadaghi,  where  there  is  a  good  Seldjuk  khan,  and  Zere- 
zek  (the  old  Arasaxa),  to  Caesarea.  Hence  back  to  Indjesu,  and  then 
through  the  wonderful  volcanic  region  of  Urgiip  and  Udjessar,  the 
home  of  the  ancient  Troglodytes.  We  have  numerous  photographs 
from  this  region,  which  will  no  doubt  be  greeted  as  a  valuable  addition 
to  science  and  archaeology.  Thence  by  Nev  Sheher  to  the  rock-cut 
dwellings  of  Tatlar.  The  cliffs  of  Tatlar  have  been  so  honeycombed 
by  the  excavating  Troglodytes,  that  large  boulders  occasionally  break 
off  and  thunder  down  like  an  avalanche  on  the  unsuspecting  village 
below,  leaving  death  and  destruction  in  their  wake.  Only  four  days 
before  our  visit  such  a  fragment,  weighing  many  tons,  had  precipi- 
tated itself  upon  the  village,  destroying  twelve  houses  and  killing  five 
men.  Several  other  boulders  must  soon  fall.  The  women  of  the 
village  had  the  idea  that  we  had  come  to  investigate  the  cliffs  and 
take  measures  for  the  protection  of  their  houses.  As  we  roamed  about, 
they  would  anxiously  inquire  of  us  :  "  Is  there  any  danger  for  our 
house?"  "Will  that  rock  fall?"  The  enchanted  book,  of  which 
Hamilton  speaks,  has  been  carried  off  by  the  Greeks  of  Arabsun,  the 
corrupted  form  of  the  ancient  Yarapason. 

Hence  our  road  lay  north  by  Tuzkieui  across  the  Halys  to  Hadji 
Bektash,  the  headquarters  of  the  Dervishes  of  that  name.  The 
Halys  is  here  a  broad  stream,  easily  forded  in  the  summer  season. 
North  of  Hadji  Bektash  lies  an  absolutely  unknown  district,  which  we 
explored  as  far  as  Pashakieui,  to  settle  the  courses  of  the  rivers ;  then 
from  Pashakieui  we  followed  the  Delidje  Irmak  in  its  downward 
course  to  a  point  direcdy  south  of  Boyiik  Nefezkieui,  to  which  we 
now  went. 

Here  I  have  to  record  one  of  the  most  important  discoveries  of 
the  journey,  but  must  preface  it  with  a  few  historical  remarks. 

The  ancient  Tavium  was  a  place  rather  insignificant  in  itself, 
although  it  is  called  the  ifx-n-opLov  ruiv  ravrrj ;  but  the  more  impor- 
tant geographically,  because  it  was  the  centre  from  which  diverged 
seven  roads,  five  of  which  are  given  in  the  Peutinger  Table,  and  the 
remaining   two   in   the   Antonine    Itinerary.     Distances    along    these 


JOURNEY    IX    ASIA    \ilN()R.  43 

roads  were  measured  from  Tavium ;  consequently  it  is  of  the  highest 
importance  to  discover  its  real  site,  for  on  it  depends  the  geog- 
raphy of  the  whole  country  between  Ancyra  and  Amasia.  Tavium 
has  been  placed  by  different  scholars  at  Tchorum,  Nefezkieui, 
Boghazkieui,  and  Yozghad ;  but  until  recently  those  best  entitled 
to  an  opinion  had  settled  on  Nefezkieui  as  the  true  site.  But 
in  November,  1883,  Professor  Hirschfeld  of  Konigsberg  published 
an  article  "Tavium"  in  the  Sitzungsberichte  der  Akademie  der 
Wissenschafteti  zu  Ber/i?i,  in  which  he  declined  to  accept  for 
Tavium  any  of  the  sites  hitherto  suggested.  He  tries  to  show  by 
arguments,  which  cannot  be  accepted,  that  the  town  must  be  sought 
for  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Halys,  and  that  its  site  is  occupied  by 
Iskelib,  a  town  situated  a  whole  degree  north  of  Boyiik  Nefezkieui. 
In  January,  1884,  Professor  Kiepert  published  in  the  Sitzungsberichte 
(as  above)  his  Gegenbeme7'kicngen  zic  der  Abhandlung  des  Urn.  G. 
Hirschfeld  i'lber  die  Lage  von  Tavium,  from  which  it  appears  that  he 
is  very  loath  to  give  up  the  site  of  Boyuk  Nefezkieui ;  but  he  finally 
suggests  Aladja,  or  a  point  immediately  south-east  of  Aladja. 

But  now  to  my  facts  !  In  a  cemetery  between  Boyiik  Nefezkieui 
and  Assara  (on  Kiepert's  map,  Aksikara) ,  and  immediately  west  of 
the  Acropolis  of  Boyiik  Nefezkieui,  I  found  a  Roman  milliarium 
which  reads  :  — 

No.  60. 

I  M  P 
NERVA  CAESARAV^ 
PONT  MAXTRIB  POTESV  II 
COS  HIPP  RESTITVIT 
PERPOMPON^P^M 
BASSVM  LEG  PROPR 


P  Ml  A 


Now  this  is  the  first  milestone  from  somewhere,  M I  being  written 
instead  of  the  more  common  M  ;*  but  as  distances  were  reckoned 
here  from  Tavium,  it  is  necessarily  the  first  milestone  on  the  road 
from  Tavium  to  Ancyra. 


*  Stones  vary  considerably  in  this  respect,  and  we  lind  M,  MI,  M,  MIL,  Mr, 
PM,  M*ILP. 


44  PRELIMINARY    REPORT    OF 

Again,  in  the  cemetery  of  Tamba  Hassan,  a  village  two  hours  north 
of  Boyiik  Nefezkieui,  on  the  road  to  Boghazkieui,  there  is  another 
milliarium,  badly  defaced  and  almost  totally  illegible. 

No.   61. 

[This  inscription  has  not  been  received.  —  Edd.] 

Now,  as  I  understand  it,  Tamba  Hassan  is  none  other  than  Tomba 
or  Tonea  of  the  Peutinger  Table,  the  first  station  on  the  road  from 
Tavium  to  Comana  in  Pontus.  Hirschfeld  points  out  that  Tonea 
and  Tomba  are  two  names  for  the  same  place.  The  Table  has 
Tonea  XHI  (and  Tomba  XVI)  MP  from  Tavium,  a  distance  which 
corresponds  reasonably  well  with  the  site  of  Tamba  Hassan. 

I  copied  about  twenty-five  inscriptions  at  Boyiik  Nefezkieui,  nearly 
all  of  which  are  Christian  epitaphs  of  no  historic  value. 

It  has  been  stated  that  the  ruins  of  Boyiik  Nefezkieui  are  too  insig- 
nificant to  represent  Tavium.  This  is  not  the  case.  It  is  true  that  at 
the  village  itself  there  are  only  comparatively  small  fragments  ;  but  all 
the  villages  around  Boyiik  Nefezkieui  are  full  of  architectural  frag- 
ments, and  the  cemetery,  whence  comes  the  milliarium,  has  scarcely 
any  other  stones  in  it  except  cippi,  columns,  and  fragments  of  epi- 
styles, of  considerable  size  and  weight.  A  future  traveller  will  no  doubt 
find  the  hot  springs  in  the  region  between  Boyiik  Nefezkieui  and 
Yozghad.  At  Kiitchiik  Nefezkieui  there  is  a  large  spring  of  cold 
water,  formerly  used  for  baths  ;  part  of  the  bath-house  still  exists.  I 
found  only  Roman  coins  at  Nefezkieui,  of  the  Caesarean  coinage. 
The  soil  is  very  fertile,  and  yields  abundant  harvests  of  wheat ;  and 
the  people  plant  nothing  else.  From  all  this  it  would  seem  that  there 
can  no  longer  be  a  reasonable  doubt  concerning  the  site  of  Tavium. 

From  Nefezkieui  we  visited  Boghazkieui  and  Uyiik,  taking  photo- 
graphs of  the  celebrated  rock  sculptures.  Leaving  Uyiik,  we  passed 
by  Sungurlu,  Beshbunar,  Aghabunar,  and  Barshili,  to  a  point  on  the 
Halys  one  hour  south  of  Kaledjik,  and  crossed  the  mountains  to  Ancyra. 
The  results  of  this  part  of  our  journey  were  purely  chorographical.  In 
the  cemetery  of  a  village  two  hours  east  of  Ancyra,  on  the  Enguri  Su, 
I  copied  the  one  hundredth  milestone  from  Tavium  (No.  62).  I 
was  much  hurried  at  the  time,  and  failed  to  get  the  name  of  the 
village  ;  but  I  shall  learn  it  hereafter  through  a  friend  in  Ancyra.* 


JOURNEY    IN    ASIA    MINOR. 


45 


No.  62. 

IMP  C  A  E  S  V  A  I 

SEVERO 

i=?0  PIO  F  EL.  I  N 

VICTO  AVG-TRI  B 

POT  II  COSI 


M    P 


At  Ancyra  we  were  compelled  to  consider  our  journey  finished, 
scientifically  speaking.  It  was  necessary  for  Mr.  Haynes  to  reach 
Nicomedia  by  a  certain  day,  and  our  one  thought  henceforth  was  to 
travel  westward  as  rapidly  as  possible.  The  inscriptions  copied  on 
the  journey  number  three  hundred  and  fifty.  Mr.  Haynes  took  three 
hundred  and  twenty  photographs.  The  route-surveys  are  in  the 
hands  of  Professor  Kiepert. 

J.    R.   S.   Sterrett. 

Athkns.  October,    1884. 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 

Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


m2im6n 

REC'D  LD 

rcii  2  7 'bb-^  AM 

^?.l^t3S4%'r                            V.^^S^^nU 

z>^Z> 


'^ZZ'\ 


